We need CVNs (more than 12…), Burkes in whatever configuration like yesterday, VA class SSNs now, and whatever weapons laden capable non-aluminum hul small frigate that can be procured. In that order. Big Navy/Blue water capable. Don’t give me this “presence vs posture” BS. We need more than shell games today.
I don’t endorse any ideas re the Amphib assault ship with ANY number of F-35Bs aboard. That concept is undefendable at sea and is simply a “small war related niche” appropriate for the USMC to conduct NEOs with… IMO it is literally a reckless and dangerous idea to consider the ARG/MEU anything approximating a carrier battle group, or rather, CSG. Shipbuilding priorities have to be US Navy first.
This is our last chance otherwise China and Russia really will be “peer adversaries”.
First look for an open spot in your ship near either the bow or stern. Ideally you will be able to place your float on the same end of the boat as your power and CO2 switches. Now you need to secure your line to the boat. If you have a good solid section of caprail to tie to use that or you’ll need to epoxy in a loop of 8 guage solid copper wire into the bottom of your boat to tie to.
Next cut a length of recovery line at least 5’ longer than the known maximum depth of the pond. Don’t count on being able to get close to shore before sinking. Boats often go down in the deepest part of the pond. I use braided nylon string with a 150+ pound test. Make sure the weight of your recovery line is not more than your float will be able to pull to the surface. If your not sure bundle your line so it is just hanging from your float then put it in a bucket. If it pulls the float under you need a bigger float.
Next you will need to make a float. I prefer cutting a large block of balsa (1”x1”x3”) and gluing it to the bottom of a piece of unsecured decking. The balsa block should help keep the deck/float from being blow or shot loose of the ship prematurely, while being able to float free of the hull. Make sure that cannon barrels or other superstructure will not block or entangle the float as it deploys. Secure your recovery line to the float with either an eyelet screw or by drilling a hole through the balsa block. Coat all knots with CA glue so the line does not untie itself. Paint the float so it doesn’t get waterlogged.
You’ll want to get a paint can cap or some other plastic cup to glue to the bottom of your hull to coil your recovery line into. Start with the boat end of the string and carefully coil it into the cup. A tangled recovery line will prevent your float from reaching the surface.
Your boat will not weigh more than it was floating until you try and pull it out of the water. A battleship can hold a good 100 pounds of water so once you pull the ship to the surface grab hold of the hull, shut down the electrical and CO2 systems and to pull the ship into the recovery boat.